Kunming and Lijiang: A Journey

We were expecting a pleasant weather, clear sunny blue skies in Yangshuo and Guilin but it was not to be.  It seemed as though we brought the cold wave with us down south.  It rained and drizzled for sometime and it was even colder indoor since there was no heating.  One day we decided suddenly and spontaneously to travel up to Kunming and to Lijiang, hoping for a better weather.

To travel within two days before the Spring Festival did not seem like a good idea but in the end it turned out that most people had already been home and we had a very peaceful and less crowded journey on the train.  Very unlike China during the season indeed!

We're thankful to Seki and his mates for their brotherly love.  Seki took care of our hotel and travel arrangement and made sure we had something to eat when every restaurant was shut down for the festival.  After celebrating the Chinese New Year (or enduring the firecrackers) at Kunming we decided to leave for Lijiang, 9 hours away by sleeper bus.

M&M and lovely Joana would not hear of us staying in a hotel.  They graciously opened their home and hosted us and it felt like home to be with this lovely family.  Really enjoyed the beautiful, clean and sunny Lijiang.  It's the home of a minority group, the Naxi.  Rich and interesting culture, and a beautiful and unique achitectural buildings of the old town, strong enough to withstand a powerful earthquake when modern buildings around the town simply collapsed like a pack of cards.

Lijiang's too nice to be true.  And like all good things, the stay must come to an end.  Kunming's wonderful too; we love it there every time we visit.  But as our friend David likes to point out, "Kunming's for wimps; real men go to Xi'an."  Lijiang's a journey, so is Kunming; not the destination.  We had to return to the good old grey Xi'an.

Here's a final installment of the photos:

Entrance to Lijiang Old Town

Water way

One of the small lanes at the old town

A lady striking a pose at the Old Town

The Black Dragon Pool

A quiet lane of a Chinese village

A view through the window

Minority Village, Kunming (and the back of Seki!)

Bamboo dance of the Jingpho (Courtesy: Sekibuhchhuak)

On to Yangshuo

The people at the China International Travel Service Counter, near the bus and train station at Guilin were friendly, spoke English and actually had useful information.  They were ready and willing to help even if you don't buy any of their services.  They offered us a hotel with a standard double room for 100 Renminbi a night at a 3* Hotel which would be no less than 400 RMB at peak season.  The Home Minister went up to check the room and after the inspection we managed to cut down the price to 90 RMB a night.

The West Street, Yangshuo

the photographer photographed

fellow cruisers from all over

a view of yangshuo township

.....and the bridge across the river

Three days at Guilin is quite sufficient if you are not in a hurry.  (You could do it for less, but more than three would be a day too many).  We then left for Yangshuo where the scenery is supposed to be much better.  The bus ride cost 15 RMB and an hour and twenty minutes but it was worth every minute.

Decided to try and follow Lonely Planet recommendation on accomodation this time around and went looking for Bamboo House Inn.  We were satisfied with the room, with a balcony and especially the soft bed.  The cosy atmosphere, the food, the setting, the readily available information, free internet (wireless included) and the service was superb and Bamboo House Inn did not disappoint.  We were extremely happy most of all for the friendly, English-speaking staff, which is a rare thing here.  We met interesting people there which I shall mention and talk about in some other appropriate place and platform.  And of course, the scenery was something that inspires and uplifts the spirit. 

Yangshuo fisherman

Yuval, an Israeli who arrived from India after spending six months there, came over to the Bamboo Inn and asked whether we'd be interested in doing a cruise from Yangdi, about 40 kilometres from Yangshuo.  Hiring a raft cost Y200.  If you get more people you can split between you and the price could be much cheaper that way.  In the end there were nine of us.  Two Chinese girls, an American couple, a German, an Israeli couple and us, the Indians.  We had the most beautiful day of our time.  The sun was up and it was really a perfect day as it rained the day before and the day after.

The cruise to Yangshuo from Yangdi on the Li river

This scenery is painted on the back of a 20 Renminbi bill

One of the clearest pics I could manage

limestone peaks reflected on a still lake

Glimpses of Guilin

Had to flee the cold, dry and grey Xi'an soon after the exams, hoping to enjoy a warmer weather down south.  However, we seemed to carry the cold wave and haze and fog with us as we arrived at Guilin.  The cruise along the Li river did not give us the scenery we had expected but it was still something to cherish.  Take a glimpse, if you will.  Hope to give you glimpses of Yangshuo which is much better than what you see here now.  Watch this space!

karst mountains reflected on the foggy Li river

Ah, the rafts!

Guilin city, behind the scene

A fisherman and his obedient and reliable cormorants

The karst mountains of Guilin, the Solitary Beauty Peak at the left

The Elephant Trunk Hill actually looks like an elephant